Full Size Weld 2026
2026 Junk It General Rules
1. These rules apply to every class. Read all rules carefully and follow them! Any questions call or text Nate Burgess 765-744-5524.
2. You must pass inspection within 2 times or you will not run.
3. A 12“ x 12“ roof sign is mandatory.
4. Vehicles must be stock, unless modifications are stated in the rules.
5. A helmet, seat belt, and eye protection must be worn at all times while on the track.
6. If the driver gets out of his or her car for any reason other than an emergency, that driver is considered out, and will not be allowed back in.
7. Any controversies or protests must be brought up during the driver's meeting.
8. All airbags, glass, plastic, bumper covers, rear speakers, wheel weights, and interior must be removed before arriving to the event.
9. Any aftermarket parts must be approved by Junk It. You must text and submit pictures for approval. Parts that are not preapproved before show will not be allowed.
10. No painting of the frames, inside of the car, underneath of the car, or inside of the trunk. If you do the car will not even be inspected. No refunds!!!!
11. Any patching or rust repair will only be allowed if preapproved in a text with pictures.
12. Official's decisions are final.
13. You have 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that car is disqualified. Don't argue or ignore the officials to try to have more time. Once your time is up, the call goes over the radio to write you down as out, even if you still have a stick. Officials may reward more time to a person putting on a show and making big hits.
14. You are allowed 2 fires. The second time your vehicle catches fire will result in a disqualification.
15. No sandbagging, teaming, or holding. We will stop the show and break your stick
2026 Full Size Weld (Whitley County ONLY)
FRAME & BUMPERS (NO RUST REPAIR)
1. Trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
2. No frame welding other than what is stated in the rules.
3. You may cut the flaps and tilt the frame in 1 place and in 1 direction. No seam welding on the frames permitted.
4. No shaping or hammering of the frame. You may crease, notch, or dimple the rear 15” of the frame to help the car roll.
5. Homemade front bumpers are permitted. If you choose to manufacture a homemade bumper, it must conform to the following size limits: It can be no larger than 8” x 8”. The point must taper over an area of at least 32” wide and cannot exceed 12” wide (front to back). The point may only extend out 4” from the flat part of the bumper. If using a factory bumper, it may be loaded or stuffed full.
6. You may mount the front or rear bumper in 1 of 2 ways:
a) The bumper may be welded to the factory shock in the factory location. If Using a factory bumper shock, it must be bolted in the factory location and must have a 1½” inch gap from the frame to the shock plate.
b) The front frame may be shortened to the front edge of the core support mounting bracket hole and the bumper may be welded directly to the frame. You are not permitted to do this for any Cadillac. For an Imperial, you are permitted to cut the first “Y” out. Call for questions! The bumper shock must be removed from the inside of the frame, and you are permitted a 4” x 15” x 3/8” plate on any side of the frame but not on the inside of the frame for a bumper bracket that must be attached to the bumper and it must be welded to the first 15” of the frame. Do not alter the factory mount. On the back side of the bumper where it meets the frame you may use a 1/4” x 6” x 6” plate to create a flat mounting surface that must be between the frame and bumper.
c) Rear bumpers may be seam welded and loaded. No Chrysler pointy or slanted bumpers are permitted for rear bumpers. The rear bumper cannot be built to ramp other cars. No exceptions! Official decisions are final! You may have a 4” x 6” x 3/8” plate on any side of the frame but not on the inside of the frame for a rear bumper bracket and it must be attached to the rear bumper. It must be welded to the first 6” of the frame. No exceptions! If you are using a factory bumper bracket, it cannot be longer than 6” and must be welded to the first 6” of the frame.
d) On 1970’s GM station wagons, the rear bumper must be in the factory location. No exceptions!
7. The front bumper cannot be higher than 22” to the bottom of the bumper and the back bumper can’t be any lower than 14” to the bottom part of the frame.
8. You may have a 6” x 22” x 3/8” hump plate on the outside of the frame towards the tires on coil spring cars and may be straight across or contoured to the frame and must be centered in the hump. On leaf sprung cars, you may have a 6” x 11” x 3/8" hump plate straight across or contoured on the outside of the frame towards the tires and it must be welded on the outside of the frame towards the tires. No chain or wire to the humps or frame is permitted. No exceptions!
9. Shortening of the rear frame, body, and unibody is not permitted in any way.
BODY & CAGE
1. Doors may be welded solid with no thicker than 1/4” x 3” material or can be fastened shut with #9 wire or banding. No excessive overlapping of the strap is permitted. The driver’s and passenger’s front door may have a door skin no thicker than 1/8” and may be welded all the way around.
2. The quarter panels must be at least 10” from the top of the frame. They can’t be flattened. No exceptions!
3. The trunk lid must be from the same make and model of the car and must be a trunk lid (no hoods). You can fold the trunk lid over or push it down. You may cut the speaker deck out or leave it in. If you choose to cut the speaker deck out, you cannot weld the deck lid to the package tray. The deck lid is being measured 12” from the top of the rear quarter panels in the center of the deck lid in 3 spots starting from the back of the deck lid up. Two (2) 8” x 8” inspection holes must be put in all deck lids within 2” of the trunk strapping and, in the center, of the side quarter panel strapping. This is mandatory. No welding the deck lid to the trunk floor. Body creasing is ALLOWED. Deck lids may be welded with 3” x 5” x 1⁄4” plate 5” on 5” off.
4. The hood can be bolted down in 6 places on the side of the fenders. 4 spots from sheet metal to sheet metal and 2 front body mounts that may extend through the hood. You are allowed four 4” x 4” x 1/4" brackets. If using wire, you may use 8 double strands of #9 wire. Two may go around the bumper and/or the frame. Hoods must be open for inspection (12" x 12" hole over the carburetor). The hood brackets cannot be any larger than 4” x 4”. If you are not using the hood hinge, it must be removed completely.
5. Factory body mount bolts may be changed to 5/8” bolts. There must be a 1” gap between the body and the frame. You can use steel spacers, hockey pucks, or a stack of washers but nothing used may be bigger than 3” in diameter. Body washers inside of the car can be no bigger than 3” in diameter. The front 2 body mounts may be 1” and extend up through the hood. You may weld a 3” x 3” x 1/4” washer to the top side of the frame but only centered over the body hole (1/4” thick).
6. No seam welding will be permitted on the body or frame. Repairing sheet metal is limited to where the battery box and gas tank are and the driver’s area of the floorboards of the car.
7. Front body spacers may be 2” x 2” x 10” tall and welded to the core support frame mount and must remain below the core support and not welded to the core support whatsoever. On an old iron car, you may cut the cup off and use the 2” x 2” x 10” spacer but you can’t minipulate the factory core support hole in any way and cannot go all the way through the core support. It must stop at the bottom of the core support.
8. You may have a bar in the dash area and a bar behind the seat. You can have one bar per side connecting the dash bar and the rear bar. Side bars may be inside of the car or inside of the doors. A 6” x 6” x 1/4” roll over bar is permitted with two 6” gussets. The roll bar must run straight across the roof and be mounted to the top side of the back bar or door bar. Drivers are allowed 4 down bars max (2 per frame rail) and are to run vertically. Down bars must stay between the dash bar and the body mount in front of rear wheel. Down bars are to be no thicker than 2x2x1/4 thick material and can be welded to the top and side of frame. The down legs cannot run through the firewall in any way, shape, or form. They must stay in the driver’s department. Gussets are permitted in the corners of the cage but must be done at the corners only. The bars must be no bigger than 6” x 6” x 1/4” in diameter and no longer than 60”. Door and dash bar must remain straight and not have any contour of any kind. You can use a 1⁄4” x 10” x 10” plate to attach the bars to the center of the door post sheet metal. No exceptions! You may have a gas tank protector no wider than 32”. It may touch the package tray sheet metal and it can be welded to sheet metal only with 2 welds or 2 1/2” bolts. The 2 1/2” bolts can go all the way through the package tray. On a non-packaged tray car, The gas tank protector cannot touch the rear end in any way. The gas tank protector must stay inside of the car body.
9. The dash bar must be 5” from the firewall and the rear bar can be no farther back than where the kick panel meets the seat. The door and dash bar must remain straight and not have any contour of any kind. All bars must be 5” off the transmission tunnel.
10. The original gas tank must be removed and replaced with a boat-style tank or fuel cell. If it is a plastic fuel cell , it must be in a steel structure. It must be moved inside of the car behind the driver's seat but no further back than the rear axle. Batteries must be moved to the passenger side floorboard and securely fastened. These must be covered with a rubber or nonflammable material.
11. You may use any metal no thicker than 1/8” or a factory air condenser on the core support in front of the radiator. The guard can’t be any bigger than an inch past the radiator. This may be attached with six 3/8” bolts or six 1” welds.
12. For safety, all cars must have at least 1 windshield bar extending from the roof/halo bar of the car to the top side of the dash bar using 2”x2”. Nothing can go past the front edge of the dashbar. You can have up to two 2”x2” pieces of square tubing that can go from the halo bar to the top side of the dash bar and no portion may extend past the dash bar. No firewall components can be welded to the dash bar. You are permitted to have 1 rear window bar that can not be any bigger than 2” x 2” x 1/4”. It cannot be welded more than 6” on the roof and 6” from the top seam of the deck lid. Your 6” must start at the top of the window for your top welding of the bar and for the bottom welding of the bar it must start at the bottom of the window. These may attach to the sheet metal no more than 6” on the roof and deck lid. On a wagon, you may have one rear window bar and it must be in the center of the tailgate no more than 6” and cannot be attached to the rear bumper.
13. You may have four ½” bolts per wheel well.
14. On a wagon, you cannot smash the car any further than the bottom of the window lip. No sedagons are permitted.
SUSPENSION
1. You are permitted 1” all thread for front shocks but only one per side with a 3” x 3” washer on top of the cone and a 3” x 3” washer on the bottom side of the lower control arm. The cones can’t be altered in any way. The washers cannot be welded. All nuts must be standard.
2. Any tie rods may be used. On an ‘03 and newer, you must use the factory rack and pinion. Rack and pinion protectors are permitted but must contour the rack and pinion and be no thicker than 1/4" and only bolt with the 2 factory bolts on the frame. Call for approval. Any rear end is permitted. If you run a rear end brace, it cannot reinforce the frame or be any wider than 10”. Any rear end component must be 5” away from all sheet metal and frame.
3. Watts link conversion kits are permitted. You must use 1⁄4” x 2” x 2” square tubing or 2” round pipe for the rear trailing arms. For the upper and lower mounting brackets, the uppers must be mounted to the package tray and the lowers must be mounted on the side of the frame. If you are using the factory top mounting bracket, you must use that bracket. It can not be mounted inside, on top of, or on the bottom of the frame and can be no larger than 7” x 7” square. If you are using a watts link conversion kit all factory trailing arms must be removed.
4. You can weld the front upper A-arms down using a 1⁄4” x 2” x 4” piece of steel on the front and back side of the upper A-arm. No other welding is permitted on the upper Aarm. No welding on the lower A-arms is permitted.
5. No spacers or other metal permitted in, on top of, or around the coil springs or inside of the frame on the coil springs. No aftermarket coil springs are permitted.
6. Rear coil springs may be wired or chained. Solid suspensions are okay. All suspension components must remain factory stock. No modifications will be permitted. Cars do not have to bounce. You can change out the factory rear shocks for 1” all thread with a standard nut. The shocks must be straight up and down and only go to A to B. No exceptions!
7. Leaf spring cars must remain factory springs. You can not change coil spring to leaf spring set ups. Leaf spring cars can change leaf springs with no more than 7 springs 5/16” thick springs. No exceptions! The main spring must be on top. Springs must be stair stepped 1”. No exceptions! No more than four 3” x 4” x 1/4” clamps per leaf pack. The rear end must sit on top of the springs. No exceptions! You can change out the factory rear shocks for 1” all thread with a standard nut and must run straight up and down. No exceptions! No more than 2 aftermarket shocks on the rear end.
8. Any tires are permitted. You can have 4 bolts per wheel well that cannot be any larger than 1/2".
9. On ‘03 and newer Fords, you must use the factory aluminum cradle and suspension components, or you may use a Junk It approved bolt in cradle but must have a 1/2” gap from the cradle to the inside frame rail. No exceptions! You may use 80’s style spindles and only 80’s style spindles. You cannot tilt an ‘03 and newer Ford. All suspension and steering components must be stock except tie rods. You can have a homemade draglink from spindle to spindle with the tie rods welded to it.
10. No aftermarket spindles are permitted. You may reinforce the factory spindle. If you use aftermarket ball joints the collar you weld in or bolt in can only be ½” bigger than the ball joint. You may not have a ball joint protector. You cannot have any bolts or heim joints for ball joints. No exceptions!
11. If you run a sway bar it must be mounted in the factory position. The ends can be heated and bolted to the lower A-arm with no bigger than a ½” bolt. It must have a 1” gap from the pulley protector. No welding of the sway bar is permitted. If you run a sway bar, it must be for the same make and model of the car you are running and must be mounted in the factory location with the factory bracket of the make and model of the car.
12. Any rear end is permitted with a rear end brace. Bracing cannot strengthen the car in any way. Any rear end component must be 5” away from the sheet metal and frame.
ENGINE, TRANSMISSON, & DRIVETRAIN
1. Any car motor of choice is permitted. You may use the frame mounts that have a rubber style bushing like a factory style mount. ZTR or equivalent mounts are permitted. Approved solid motor mounts are permitted no longer than 7” long and must be welded to the frame cradle only. No exceptions! No chains on the engine are permitted.
2. The transmission cross member can be a factory one or 2” x 2” square tubing only. It must be straight across and not through the frame.
3. The angles for the cross member can't be longer than 7" x 2” x 2” and must be within 12" from the factory location. The cross member must sit on top of the cross member bracket.
4. Full engine cradles, a front plate, and pulley protectors are permitted.
5. Transmission braces, aftermarket bell housings, aftermarket tail shafts, midplates and slider driveshafts are permitted. Midplates can not strengthen the car in any way and can only be 1” past the engine block. Distributor protectors, fan guards, and halo bars are permitted.
6. Aftermarket gas pedal, brake pedal, steering column, and transmission cooler are permitted. These must not be mounted in a way to strengthen cars.
7. No skid plates are permitted.
FIX IT PLATES
1. All fresh cars are permitted FOUR 4”x4”x1/4” square fix it plates. All Pre-Ran cars are permitted SIX 4”x4”x1/4” square fix it plates. Once plates are put on, they may not be cut off and moved. There must be a 1” gap between the welds of these plates.
2. If you run a full engine cradle, you are NOT allowed to run kickers. If you choose NOT to run a full cradle, you have the option to run kickers. 2x2x1/4 thick to back of A arm, 1 per side only. With the addition of NO Gussets allowed from kicker to dash bar or kicker to frame.
You only get 2 chances to pass inspection, If you get sent back to correct something on your car and it does not meet our standards when you come back to tech you will not run that night. If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. Shows must start on time and we will not be playing the cat and mouse games anymore. Any controversies or protests must be brought up during the drivers meeting. We have the right to reinspect, cut, or drill any car at any time. If you are caught breaking the rules, you will forfeit all winnings and or prizes you are due. No sandbagging, teaming, or holding. You cannot pin to win. Any of these will result in a disqualification. Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Official's decision is final
